Korea (South)

Exploring the DMZ: A Surreal Experience

Okay, let's be real. Visiting the DMZ? It's a bit of a wild card. After diving into some online blogs and chatting with the Redditverse, I just went for it. YOLO, right? But going in, I knew there was always a sliver of a chance things could get… spicy between North and South Korea. So, yeah, you do you. Or, you can just live vicariously through my slightly unhinged adventure.

Forget the nitty-gritty tour details (Viator's got you covered if you're curious). I want to share the bizarre and fascinating stuff that stuck with me.

First stop: Imjingak Peace Park. Apparently, South Koreans flock here to remember the families torn apart by the Korean War. It’s this quiet, reflective space in Paju, where people go to find some peace and maybe a glimmer of hope for reunification. You'll see families, especially in the parking lot (oddly specific, I know), just praying for their loved ones up North. Then BAM! Not even 50 meters away, there's a full-blown theme park, kids screaming on rides while adults are mourning. Talk about whiplash. This is today’s Korea.

Then there's this cable car thing near the civilian boundary, just outside the actual DMZ (right by the Peace Park). It zips you into an area practically breathing down the DMZ's neck. Oh, and did I mention the active landmines? They even found one and put it on display for tourist selfies. Because, why not? But wait, it gets weirder. Right next to this potentially explosive souvenir, there’s a whole setup where you can play Squid Games. Yes, that Squid Games. This is Today's Korea.

Inside the actual DMZ, there's this village called Taesung, or Freedom Village, on the South Korean side. Only about 200-ish people live there, and they’ve got their own restaurant and grocery store. But their lives are seriously restricted – strict curfews, and they're pretty much stuck in the MZ for life. Here’s the kicker: the village isn't even run by South Korea; it's under the control of the UN Command (aka, the US army). Tourists are welcome to wander in, snag some subsidized groceries (same price as the locals!), and even chow down on a buffet made with organic grub grown right there in the DMZ. This is today’s Korea.

And the grand finale? Infiltration tunnels dug by North Korea. Yep, they turned that into a tourist attraction too. You descend 70 meters underground, walk 300 meters towards North Korea, and suddenly you're only 170 meters from the North Korean side. It’s all very… casual? This is today’s Korea.

Big shoutout to Nancy from Team Nancy! This tour guide was a powerhouse, bringing the energy from 7 am to 5 pm. She was a wealth of historical knowledge, the ultimate photo director (keeping us out of trouble!), and even hiked with us. No pressure for tips or sneaky upselling either. Bonus: a live demo of her skincare routine during our DMZ shopping spree (with product reveals!). Nancy made the whole DMZ experience both fun and informative. Forever a Team Nancy member! And you know what she says: This is today’s Korea!

The most striking thing to me is this: you have one country locked in what's basically a never-ending war with the world's only undefined border. Then, right next door, you've got a place grappling with serious unemployment and poverty under a truly bizarre dictatorship. It's like, for the past half-century, the North has been laser-focused on nukes, while the South has become this super-modern, capitalist success story obsessed with peace and happiness – sometimes to an almost comical degree. It's like they're actively trying to sweep any hint of conflict under the rug and inject joy into everything. But anyway, This is today’s Korea!

Dodging the Seoul Freeze: Coffee, Comfort Food, and Convenience Store Raids

Man, Korea in the dead of winter? Officially the coldest I've ever been. My tropical blood was not having it. But you know what got me through? The insane coffee culture. Seriously, you can snag a killer black coffee for like a buck. And the lattes? Forget about it. Ediya Coffee became my obsession – their 5-grain and tiramisu lattes are next level. I'm usually not a milky coffee person, but these were game-changers. What cracked me up was seeing all the young Koreans rocking iced long blacks like it was a beach day. Meanwhile, I was bundled up like a yeti!

When the afternoon and evening chills hit hard, tteokbokki from a street vendor or a steaming bowl of jjigae or dak-galbi (that spicy chicken with cheese and rice – yum!) were lifesavers.

But the real MVP? Korean convenience stores. Forget what you know. These places are treasure troves of snacks. Sweet, spicy, savory – I went on a mission to try it all. Shrimp crackers, red bean buns... flavor explosion! And let's not forget the cheap soju and snack combos to kick off the evenings before hitting the local markets for something heartier.

Even with all the layers, the cold was brutal. Seriously struggled to stay outside for long. Thank god for Seoul's subway system. Cheap, easy to use, and it got me everywhere on my first day – Bukchon Hanok Village, Gyeongbokgung Palace, Namsan Tower, and a bunch of markets. Trying to balance work, the solo travel thing, and that bone-chilling cold was a bit of a juggle, so I didn't get the deepest dive into Seoul. But hey, Busan was next on the list, and I had a feeling things were about to get even more interesting!

The Busan Beat: Seafood, Santorini Vibes, and a Seriously Intense Spa

My Busan adventure kicked off with a cinematic twist – watching "Train to Busan" on the actual train to Busan! Talk about immersive.

Having only penciled in a couple of nights, I quickly realized Busan was buzzing with things to do. My first afternoon? Straight to Jagalchi Fish Market. Forget the fishy smell – it was all sparkling seafood neatly displayed. Grabbed some grub at a tiny canteen for the freshest catch. Wandering around, a random family store showered me with snacks (some delightfully mysterious) and Korean apricot tea. Of course, I stocked up on black sesame peanuts for the folks back home.

Next up: Gamcheon Cultural Village, aka Korea's Santorini (or Machu Picchu, take your pick!). Think colorful, stacked houses and maze-like alleys clinging to a hillside. It started as a refugee shantytown post-Korean War and has transformed into an artsy haven. Still saw locals living in those tiny homes. The boutique cafes? Killer coffee, even if it was a tad pricier than usual.

But the real highlight? Spaland Centum City, the king of Korean spas (jjimjilbang). Going in, I knew the drill – communal nudity is part of the experience. After a few awkward minutes, I was hopping between saunas and hot springs, feeling pretty relaxed. Then, curiosity (or maybe madness) led me to a room with two shirtless Korean guys and a scrub mitt. Next thing I knew, I was stark naked on a table getting the mother of all skin exfoliations. Seriously, every inch. Walked out with baby-soft skin and a story I'm still processing.

Wrapping Up My Korean Whirlwind

Okay, so Korea. What a trip. Freezing cold, but totally worth it for the DMZ craziness and that insane spa scrub in Busan. Seriously, picture the weirdest border in the world right next to a Squid Game setup, and then me, stark naked, getting scrubbed raw by a stranger. You can't make this stuff up. The cheap coffee and street food were lifesavers, though. Definitely need to explore more if I ever thaw out enough to go back.