Japan

Japan, an enigma. A beautiful mystery.

Before my travels to Japan, I'd been knee-deep in books and articles about its history, people, culture, politics, and economy. Honestly, I had a whole bunch of doubts swirling around in my head about everything I'd read. Fast forward three weeks spent exploring Japan, and I'm completely mesmerized, but in the weirdest way, even more confused! My curiosity is officially piqued.

It's wild to think that other than the Edo Period (1603-1868), Japan never really had a super long stretch of stable government. They had internal squabbles throughout their history. You'd think that given how things went down in the rest of the world, the English or the Portuguese would have jumped at the chance to colonize Japan. But nope! Despite all the internal drama, Japan somehow managed to soak up Western tech, military setups, and economic ideas, leading to massive industrial growth and a seriously strong, modern military. Back then, their ability to use those conflicts to push their national goals forward was something totally unique – you didn't really see it in other similar cultures like India. How 🤷? Only in Japan 🇯🇵

Then comes the awful bombings of Hiroshima and Nagasaki, and the US steps in to introduce democracy. And guess what? Japan runs with it! They experience this insane economic recovery from the 50s to the 80s – the "Japanese Miracle," they called it. But then, thanks again to the US, this seemingly unstoppable force hits a wall in the 1980s. But it's not your average 80s. It's this bizarre mix of future and past. Seriously, take a half-hour walk anywhere in Japan, and you'll see it – a 300-year-old temple chilling next to towering skyscrapers, bullet trains whizzing past snowy mountains and crystal-clear rivers, Michelin-starred ramen joints next to cozy little izakayas, and a zoo right next to retro shopping streets. How 🤷? Only in Japan 🇯🇵

Now, this is where it gets really interesting, at least for me. You've got a country that went through conflicts, got bombed, had this crazy period of growth, and then its economy kind of stalled. Thirty percent of the population is over 65, and the work culture is so intense it fuels a pretty big drinking scene. Sounds like a recipe for civil unrest, right? Wrong! I chatted with a few locals about this, and they all seemed genuinely happy and satisfied, from the corporate types to the bartenders. How 🤷? Only in Japan 🇯🇵

This trip was also my first proper solo adventure where I wasn't also working. Total freedom to do whatever, whenever. If you know me, you know I love being out and about. I walk for miles, chill by rivers or in parks watching people go by. I like to grab a bite every few hours and explore the craft beer and cocktail scene. I'm also always on the hunt for those quirky, off-the-beaten-path experiences because they tend to be quieter and more authentic, especially in a place like Japan where people love a good queue.

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Osaka, without a doubt, lives up to its reputation as a food paradise! My first taste was the incredible kushikatsu (deep-fried skewered meat and vegetables) with a crisp Kirin – the perfect start. The next couple of days were a delicious blur of scorching my tongue on Takoyaki (fried batter with diced octopus) in Shinsekai's cool retro vibe, savoring okonomiyaki (seafood and vegetable pancake) in a quiet corner of bustling Dotonbori, and washing it all down with Sapporo and yuzu sours alongside some tasty Ajitsuke Baigai (marinated snails). Let's not forget the surprisingly good green tea beer in Umeda and the comforting bowls of soba and udon from the sweetest old ladies. Seriously, the quality, accessibility, and prices in Osaka's food scene blew me away compared to elsewhere!

Kyoto's culinary scene might play second fiddle to Osaka, but it still delivered some unforgettable bites. I enjoyed a simple yet satisfying pot-fried udon at Aeon Mall while waiting for my room – clearly a local favorite judging by the queue! The A5 Wagyu skewers in Nishiki Market were heavenly, and those rice dumplings with the sweet and spicy sauce and matcha were the perfect post-Mt. Inari treat.

But Kyoto wasn't just about the sit-down meals. I stumbled upon two amazing bars that became highlights. Zam Zam Bar in Pontocho Alley wasn't just about the drinks; chatting for hours with Stefania, the bartender, about everything from travel to the Japanese economy was the real treat. "The roots of all evil" became my go-to spot for my last three nights. From a nutty matcha-yuzu-gin cocktail with Herring Soba to whisky chats with Rae that led to generous pours, and a hilarious night with a fantastic UK couple, Edd and Lucy, this bar had it all. We covered veganism, life, property, and future Japan plans – can't wait to see them again!

However, the real game-changer in Kyoto was discovering the sheer awesomeness of Japanese supermarkets like Lawson, FamilyMart, and 7/11. Forget your average convenience store – these places are packed with fresh, flavorful, high-quality, and unbelievably cheap bento boxes, curries, pasta, sushi, burgers, and even beer and wine! Plus, they'll microwave it for you and give you cutlery. These became my lifesavers for late-night snacks and lazy lunches throughout the rest of my trip!

Now, Tokyo’s got this insane amount of places to eat and drink, especially in areas like Shibuya and Shinjuku. But honestly, those spots were just packed and way too expensive for my taste. Couldn't really chill or enjoy anything there. Had this totally weird, un-Japanese vibe at a bar in Golden Gai – they basically kicked me out before I could even finish talking or order another drink. The trick was getting away from all the touristy stuff. That's where I found the good bars, the awesome drinks, and cool people. My favorite spot in Tokyo? This place called "The Auditorium." Seriously, I tried a bunch of Japanese single malts and some wild whisky cocktails with a Japanese twist, like a matcha sazerac! Made friends with Naoto, the super classy bartender who also loves whisky, and these two hilarious guys from Belarus who live in LA. Ended up going back a few times just to try their beers on tap and listen to jazz on their record player. Definitely hitting that place up again next time I'm in Tokyo!

In Yokohama, after wandering around its stunning port and clocking 15,000 steps, I dove headfirst into some seriously good street food in one of the best Chinatowns I've ever seen. The grand finale? A deep dive into the world of Kirin beer with a 90-minute tour of their brewery, capped off with tasting their premium brews, including the famous Ichiban – brewed with only the first press. Definitely a day well spent!

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Okay, so you can't really walk a mile in Japan without hitting a temple or catching someone sipping on matcha. But some stuff just sticks with you, you know? Heads up: wandering through the Arashiyama bamboo forest (total tourist zoo) or shelling out for fancy drinks in Gion (ouch, my wallet) didn't make my "OMG Japan" list, even though I totally did both.

But Takayama? Those two nights were probably the highlight reel of my whole trip. Picture this: a two-hour train ride with views of valleys and creeks that look like they're straight out of a painting. Then you've got morning markets bursting with local goodies, cute little cafes and shops, and sake breweries galore. Oh, and a rooftop onsen where you can soak with snow-capped mountain views. And the Hida Folk Village? Felt like stepping back in time – pure magic in the Japanese Northern Alps. Seriously, my only regret was not having more time there. Being my first Japan trip, I went for the "must-sees," but next time? More sake tasting, definitely more of those amazing hida beef curries, and long, chill walks by the streams watching the koi fight their way upstream.

Back in Kyoto, dodging the crazy crowds was a sport in itself! But honestly, a few things totally stood out. First up, conquering Mt. Inari. If you know me, you know I can't resist a good climb. Fushimi Inari was calling my name. Now, the first half hour? Packed. Like, sardines in a can packed. Forget enjoying those famous red torii gates or snapping a decent pic. But stick with it! Push past that first shrine, and things get real interesting. Loads of people bail after that first photo op. Their loss! The secret? Keep going all the way to the top. Seriously, the views of Kyoto up there are way better, and you'll find a ton more shrines and those iconic gates stretching all the way up. It's only like another 40 minutes of stairs, and bam – another shrine at the very peak! Coming down, I took the less scenic but way faster route and bumped into Mohammed, a fellow Aussie who'd somehow lost his mates. We ended up walking down together, snapping photos for each other and chatting about Sydney and Japan. Small world, right?

Time for some zen vibes! I went to a traditional Japanese tea ceremony, and yes, there's a pic somewhere of me in a kimono! Sat with a tea master and this unique group – a Russian couple, some folks from Italy, and Jean-Claude and Clara from Ivory Coast. We learned about the whole history, how it came from China and is super tied to Zen Buddhism. Then came the quiet time (meditation!) and this cool ritual of cleaning everything before we got to whisk our own matcha. Honestly, I never thought I'd like pure matcha, but hey, Japan surprises you! Afterward, I chatted with Jean-Claude, we swapped contacts, and went our separate ways. I grabbed a quick bite and went for a stroll along the Kamo River (love that spot!). Forty minutes later, who do I see on a bridge? Jean-Claude and Clara! So, I joined them to check out Sanjusangendo temple with its crazy 1001 Kannon statues. And get this – Clara used to teach in villages in India super close to where I grew up, for a charity I support! Talk about a small world moment.

Navigating Tokyo: Beyond the Tourist Traps

Being a first-timer in Tokyo, I naturally had to tick off some of those "golden trip" spots. But honestly? Shibuya's scramble crossing, the bright lights of Shinjuku, and the quirky street style of Harajuku didn't really do it for me – way too crowded and hyped up.

Ginza, surprisingly, was a different story. Maybe it was the cloudy skies keeping the masses away, or the fact that the main roads were closed to cars for the weekend, giving everyone room to breathe. Serendipity struck when I was working out at my company's Tokyo office gym (yes, they have one!). I saw a familiar face in the mirror – Tim, a colleague from Sydney! We were both totally taken aback by the coincidence. We ended up exploring Ginza together that afternoon, which was a lot more fun with a familiar face. We even made plans for lunch the next day, still laughing about our random encounter.

And then, things got even weirder (in a good way!). As Tim and I were having lunch, who walks by? Another Sydney colleague, Rosh, who was in Tokyo for his annual Japan trip. It was great catching up with them both and swapping travel tips. I ended up spending some time with Tim in Asakusa and Akihabara, places I hadn't planned on focusing on so much. Akihabara's anime and tech scene was definitely an experience!

Like New York City, Tokyo has something for everyone, especially if you're looking for high-end shopping or fancy restaurants. But for me, the real charm of Japan lies outside those major commercial areas. Strolling through Ueno Park and along the Meguro River, watching kids heading home from school and tourists biking along the paths, was a highlight. Exploring Japan's beautiful nature and peaceful green spaces, with their mix of modern buildings and serene shrines, was definitely a favorite part of my first solo adventure. Seriously, Japan's cleanliness is on another level – almost unbelievable. You literally won't spot a stray bottle, wrapper, or even a speck of dirt on the streets. Fun fact though: you won't find any public bins either, especially in Tokyo. Apparently, that's partly for security reasons (after the 1995 sarin gas attack) and partly just how they roll culturally – less littering, take your trash home.

If you're looking to escape the hustle and bustle of Tokyo and experience a more genuine slice of Japan, take a day trip to Yokohama. My recent visit was the perfect example. I started in the modern Minatomirai district, strolled along a lovely promenade with city skyline views (and a giant Ferris wheel!), and then followed a vibrant, flower-lined path to the charming Red Brick Warehouses, full of cute shops and cafes.

From there, I continued along the coast to Yamashita Park, and wow – I was blown away by the sheer number of flowers! Seriously, it was a floral paradise. After soaking in all that beauty, I made my way to Yokohama's famous Chinatown and devoured some seriously tasty street food. It was a fantastic day and a refreshing change of pace from Tokyo.

One unexpected highlight of my trip was meeting a distant relative for the first time. My mum's cousin has lived in Japan for ages, and after letting my mum know I was in Tokyo, we quickly connected and grabbed a couple of lunches. It was instant connection – we talked about everything: family, travel, food, and even AI. In a world where so many relationships feel a bit surface-level, it was genuinely heartwarming to connect with someone who's always been family. Chatting with my mum's cousin, who's lived in Japan for ages, was full of surprises. I asked him why he wasn’t wearing a coat (it is unusual to see an older Japanese man not wearing a suit on weekdays!), and he explained that after Japan cut back on nuclear energy, places started seriously conserving energy. That meant lower AC in buildings and trains, which led to people dressing a bit more "cool" – think sharp white shirts and black pants instead of the usual full suit. Who knew energy policy could change fashion?!

I also stumbled upon some of those classic Japanese traits you always hear about. The politeness and helpfulness are definitely real. One morning, totally lost in a huge building, a kind old man literally walked me to where I needed to go (15 mins away) after Google Maps failed spectacularly. Another time, after a few too many Kirin beers at the brewery, I left my phone behind, and the tour guide actually chased me down to return it.

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Eighteen days flew by in a flash, filled with so many temples, unbelievably delicious food, meeting some amazing people, and more train rides than I can count! Seriously, even with averaging around 17,000 steps every single day, it still felt like I barely scratched the surface of Japan's incredibly rich culture. I'm already dreaming of going back, and it seems like I'm in good company with everyone else who falls in love with this place! It's crazy how much I experienced, but I didn't even get to the really significant historical sites like Hiroshima and Nagasaki, explore the hiking trails in Nikko, or venture out to the smaller islands. So many more adventures waiting for the next trip!